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TASTEFUL PURSUITS ALONG THE SEAWAY TRAIL:

Most travelers today plan their trips to include a combination of casual and fine dining experiences. We've compiled the following overviews of fifteen excellent restaurants along the Seaway Trail—some elegant, some quite casual—with at least one in each county to assist you in your search for good meals. While there are numerous fine restaurants along the trail, we could not include them all in a short space. Please refer to our member restaurants beginning on page 7 for additional selections. If you're staying in the area, your host can certainly recommend restaurants to accommodate your tastes and budget. We proceed from Chautauqua through St. Lawrence County in New York State and finish up with the Pennsylvania section of the trail. Bon appetit! And happy traveling.

~ Featured Restaurants ~

The White Inn. Just to approach the majestic entrance of the White Inn in Fredonia is a joy! Built in 1868, the White Inn showcases American cuisine in its beautifully restored dining rooms, lounge and outdoor veranda. A sampling of their famous signature entrees include Lamb Wyoming (saddle of lamb, almonds, spinach, garlic, shallots and seasonings); English Filet Mignon (with walnuts, Stilton and port) and White Inn Shrimp (with shallots, smoked salmon, chablis, cream and herbs fresh from the garden). The menu also offers Portobello Bruschette, Ancho Encrusted Sea Scallops, Dijon Grilled Salmon, Roast Mahogany Duckling, Wild Mushroom Pasta and desserts such as the Chocolate Mousse Cake that Kathleen kindly shared with us (see the end of this article for recipes). A full breakfast is included in an overnight stay in any of the Inn's 23 distinctive, antique-filled rooms and suites. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner year round. 52 East Main Street, Fredonia, NY 14063. 1-888-FREDONIA or 716-672-2103.

Miss Buffalo & Niagara Clipper. Ahoy mates! Choose your cruise on Lake Erie and the Niagara River aboard the Niagara Clipper or Miss Buffalo. Climb aboard for a leisurely sunset cruise to savor not only a sumptuous buffet, but also the summer breeze and the beautiful Buffalo and Niagara sights. Enjoy an action-packed Murder Mystery during October or plan an elegant reception for up to 225 people with china, linens, crystal and the staff in ship's uniforms. Cruises May through October. Sunday Champagne Brunches June through September. Call for details. 79 Marine Drive, Buffalo, NY. 800-244-8684 or 716-856-6696.

The Grand Lady. Sail away on the Grand Lady for your most important corporate or social function. She's an 80-foot yachting style vessel with state of the art amenities. Dining ranges from casual to gourmet in an ambience of grace and charm. Your breakfast, lunch, champagne brunch, dinner or moonlight cruise is fully enclosed and climate controlled. Home port is the Grand Island Holiday Inn, 100 Whitehaven Road, Grand Island, NY 14072. 716-774-8594.

Carmelo's Coat of Arms. First a granary, next a jailhouse, and then an English pub, Carmelo's Coat of Arms Restaurant is steeped in the Niagara region's history! Today Carmelo's features creative and satisfying Mediterranean cuisine such as savory lamb dishes, tender veal delicacies and its piece de resistance, Prince Edward Island Mussels. Bon appetit! While in Lewiston, be sure to browse the many shops and search for that special something with which to remember your trip. 425 Center Street, Lewiston, NY 14092. 716-754-2311.

Riverside Inn. Ask for a window seat for dinner at the Riverside Inn in Lewiston, and you'll be treated to a spectacular view of pleasure boats as they parade along the beautiful Niagara River. The impressive menu includes specialties from land, sea and garden—such as Lobster Bisque, Baked Brie, Chateaubriand for Two, Live Maine Lobster, Veal au Poivre, pastas, daily pub specials, light meals and an intriguing wine list. There's something to please surely everyone's taste at the Riverside—from escargot and Caesar salad to derby pie, espresso and luscious specialty coffees. 115 South Water Street, Lewiston, NY. 716-754-8206.

Veronica's Tea Room. Driving east along the Seaway Trail to Orleans County is an area called “The Bridges” known for the outstanding fishing on Oak Orchard Creek. Nearby, Veronica's Tea Room serves special lunches and excellent dinners in an atmosphere of small tables, antique teapots, flowered china patterns—all with attention from Veronica herself. This refurbished 1888 Victorian home also welcomes children's teas and birthday parties, providing hats and dress-up clothes for children (and fun-loving grown-ups!) Veronica's lunches, high teas, Sunday brunches and delicious dinners are lovingly prepared: ever-changing soups and chowders, savory quiches, Lemon Chicken, Enchanted Tea Sandwiches, puddings and pies, coffees and teas. 14276 Oak Orchard River Road, Waterport, NY 14571. 716-682-0016.

Newport House Restaurant & Marina. Is there anything more pleasant than dining near the water? We think not. Patrons of the Newport House Restaurant arrive either by car or boat to enjoy lunch and dinner as well as the beauty of Irondequoit Bay. Built in the early 1800s, the Newport House has been updated to offer all the amenities and service expected of the 90s. A newly refurbished banquet room now holds up to 200 in an inviting backdrop of many pinks and roses. Their in-house pastry chef brings customers back repeatedly for irresistible treats such as Triple Layer Cappuccino Mousse, Chocolate Hazelnut Truffle, Praline Cheesecake with Caramel Rum Sauce plus tempting desserts du jour. Sweet tooth, anyone? Open year round, serving lunch and dinners daily. 500 Newport Road, Rochester, NY 14622. 716-467-8480.

Mario's Via Abruzzi. Photos of numerous smiling celebrities adorn Mario's walls—a testimony to both the food and hospitality of this excellent Rochester eatery. Each evening the Daniele family creates the day's classic specialita della cassa and places tempting samples of them near the entrance. What a temptation! Mario's is truly a labor of love for the Danieles, who hope you thoroughly enjoy your dining experience here. Whether in parties of two or 250, you will be personally attended to. Menu offerings range from Carpaccio, Grilled Calamari and Gnocchi with Five Cheeses to Grilled Vegetables with Risotto, Braised Rabbit and a host of fresh and savory Italian sensations. 2740 Monroe Avenue, Rochester, NY 14622. 716-271-1111.

Cutter's Restaurant & Marina. A delightful apple orchard has become the setting for Cutter's Restaurant & Marina. On a hill overlooking beautiful Sodus Bay, Cutter's is the perfect place to enjoy both the nautical scenery and the restaurant's specialties: prime rib, fresh (never frozen) haddock in crisp beer batter, plus a variety of Cajun and Italian entrees. Come by car or float in by boat! Watch the sailboats as they ply their way about the bay and treat yourself to a trip to the Chimney Bluffs. A Seaway Trail tradition in casual dining. Lake Bluff Road, North Rose, NY 14516. 315-587-2301.

Old Stone Row. Simply stated, Old Stone Row is not to be missed. Set in a restored limestone building that once housed Zebulon Pike, Ulysses Grant and Fiorello LaGuardia, on the grounds of Madison Barracks in picturesque Sackets Harbor, history permeates the earth, air, and old stone walls. Add to that an utterly inspired and exquisitely prepared menu, and you have a truly memorable dining experience. Menus change often to take advantage of the season's freshest ingredients. Rose and Tony Hanson's love for great world flavors is apparent in their offerings such as Jonah Crab Cakes with Chipotle Mayonnaise, Goat Cheese Baked in a Spicy Tomato Vinaigrette, Sea Scallops with Chinese Ginger Black Bean Sauce, or Spice Rubbed Pork Tenderloin with Citrus Garlic Mojo Sauce. Wine enthusiasts will appreciate the selection and are invited to visit Old Stone Row's new wine store. If you're a visitor to the area and love great food, don't pass this one by! 336 Brady Road, Madison Barracks, Sackets Harbor, NY 13685. 315-646-2923.

Clipper Inn. Opening day of the Clipper Inn in April marks the beginning of the summer season in the Thousand Islands! The freshest of fish, tenderest of veal, tastiest of prime rib and their many accompaniments are transformed into wondrous delights via the magic touch of master chef, Mike Simpson. Choose from Pesto Shrimp Alfredo, Escargot in Porcini Mushroom Sauce, Filet Oscar, famous Clipper surf and turf combinations or Mike's daily creations. The Clipper Inn is in the heart of the Thousand Islands, near boat tours, the Antique Boat Museum, 1000 Islands Craft School, and endless nautical activities. 126 State Street, Route 12, Clayton, NY. 315-686-3842.

Foxy's Restaurant. Bring the family to Foxy's Restaurant for great food and a whole lot of fun. Foxy's menu is extensive with a choice that's sure to please everyone in your party—from Mood Soup (whatever the chef's in the mood to make), a skillet of fresh mushrooms and Cajun Shrimp Cocktail to Chicken Picatta, Veal Saltimbocca, Lasagna, Shrimp Scampi Parmigiana and over a dozen pasta specialties, steaks and a variety of pizzas. The big cruisers, sailboats, antique runabouts and all sorts of power boats at their dock attest to Foxy's popularity in their stretch of the St. Lawrence River. Fishers Landing, 1/2 mile off NY Route 12. 315-686-3781.

Jacques Cartier Dining Room. The view of Boldt Castle from the Jacques Cartier Dining Room at the Riveredge Resort is utterly romantic. In winter, fog suspends the castle as if floating in air, while summer gives way to all manner of nautical recreation and commerce. The spectacular view, however, is but one facet of the pleasure you'll enjoy here. Patrons choose from luscious first courses such as Lobster Spanikopita, Seafood Bisque, White Asparagus Soup; and dramatic entrees such as Mixed Grill of quail, lamb and glazed duck; Black Angus filet with green peppercorns and portobello mushrooms; or Cajun grilled lobster tails with tropical chutney. Ask about the prix fixe menu which pairs a lovely wine with each of seven-courses. The Riveredge is a full-service resort with lovely rooms, suites, special packages and a first-floor restaurant, Windows on the Bay. Accessible by car and boat at 17 Holland Street, Alexandria Bay, NY 13607. 1-800-ENJOY-US.

Violi's. Celebrating its 50th anniversary last year, Violi's Restaurant of Massena, NY began as “Ye Old Pittsburgh” during the days of the Pittsburgh Reduction Company (now Alcoa Aluminum). Still the Violi family takes great pride in presenting excellent cuisine and assuring that guests are both comfortable and satisfied. Their traditional Italian fare includes Stuffed Eggplant, Pasta e Fagioli, Mussels Marinara, Bruschetta, Calamari, mouthwatering veal and seafood entrees plus Violi's famous homemade spaghettini, linguini and penne pasta. Minutes from the St. Lawrence Seaway and Eisenhower Locks where 800 foot ocean-going vessels make their way to and from the Great Lakes. Open year round. 209 Center Street, Massena, NY 13662. 315-764-0329.

Gathering Restaurant. The newly opened Gathering Restaurant at Heritage Vineyards in the picturesque village of North East, Pennsylvania is the perfect place to indulge your love of both food and wine. Set in a restored 19th century Amish barn with a wonderful view of Lake Erie and the Pennsylvania Seaway Trail, the restaurant is upstairs over the winery where tastings and sales are the order of the day. The menu is a mixture of favorites such as Shrimp Cocktail and French Onion Soup, Prime Rib, Chicken Cordon Bleu, and Pasta Primavera, among other house specialties such as Veal Verochio (with fresh spinach, Swiss cheese and white wine sauce). Of course this is a great opportunity to sample the wines created on the premises. Enjoy biking, antiquing, the region's vineyards and Lake Erie. 12162 East Main Road, North East, PA 16428. 814-725-8015 or 1-800-747-0083.

~ The Recipes ~

Chocolate Mousse Cake, White Inn, Fredonia, NY

1 1/4 lbs. semi-sweet chocolate, 7 eggs, 1 c. sugar, 1 oz coffee (optional)
1/2 oz each rum and brandy, 1 1/4 c. heavy cream

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees, place a sheet tray in oven and fill 1/2 full with water. 2. Coat 10-inch teflon cake pan with thick coating of Whirl. 3. Melt chocolate in a medium bain marie in steam table. 4. Place uncracked eggs in hot water to warm up. 5. Whip cream to soft peaks and set aside. 6. Whip eggs and sugar until almost fills the bowl. 7. In large mixing bowl, combine melted chocolate, rum, brandy coffee and one cup of the whipped cream. 8. Fold in 1/3 of the whipped egg mixture, then 1/3 of the whipped cream, then gently fold in the remaining eggs & cream. 9. Pour into prepared pan, taking care to fill the pan full. Place in water bath and bake approximately 1 hour. Then let the cake rest in the oven with the oven door open for 20 minutes. Chill well. 10. To remove from pan heat pan on stove over low heat, then flip out onto flat serving dish. Yields one 10-inch cake.

Corn and Crab Chowder, Veronica's Tea House

1/2 lb. bacon, 1 medium onion, finely chopped, 2 large garlic cloves finely chopped

1 large leek, finely chopped, 2 stalks celery, diced, 1 bay leaf, 1/2 lb. crabmeat

1 tsp. thyme, 8 oz corn, 1 qt. chicken broth, 2 c. heavy cream, 2 tbls. cornstarch

2 tbls. cold chicken broth, salt & pepper to taste.

1. Saute bacon until crisp and remove from pan. 2. In drippings, saute onion, garlic, leek, thyme and bay leaf for 5 mins. 3. Add corn and cook over low heat for 10 mins. 4. Add chicken broth, salt and pepper to taste and continue cooking for 40 mins. 5. Add cream and cornstarch mixed with cold chicken broth. Cook for 5 mins. Do not boil. 6. Add crabmeat just before serving and heat through. Makes 10 servings.

Vodka Sauce ala Ziti, Carmelo's Coat of Arms

1 lb. cooked ziti, 2 tsp. butter, 1/4 c. chopped onions, 1 tsp. chopped garlic, 2 tsp. pesto

1 c. tomato sauce, 2 oz. vodka, 2 c. heavy cream, 1/2 c. grated romano cheese.

1. Melt butter on medium heat. Add garlic, onion and pesto. Cook until tender. 2. Raise heat to high and add vodka. Cook to reduce (about 2 minutes). 3. Lower heat and add tomato sauce, heavy cream and cheese. Cook until thickened. Toss with warm, cooked ziti. Enjoy!

Trota-Salmonata al Cartoccio (Parchment Roasted Artic Char), Mario's Via Abbruzzi

6 Artic Char filets, skin on (or you may substitute salmon or trout)

2 large portobello mushrooms, sliced; 4 plum tomatoes, diced

1 fennel bulb, sliced; 1 leek, sliced; 1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt

black pepper, fresh ground; 6 12” x 18”sheets parchment paper

1. Using needle-nose pliers carefully remove the line of pin bones that rum laterally down the length of each fish filet. 2. Place each filet, skin side down, in the middle of a piece of parchment and season with a pinch of kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. 3. Place portions of the portobello, fennel, leek, tomato and garlic on top of each filet. Drizzle with olive oil and lightly season with salt and pepper. If your fennel bulb comes with fronds, place a sprig on top as garnish. 4. Fold parchment lengthwise around the fish, like a sleeve, and make a seam by tightly folding the paper. Fold ends under to seal. 5. Bake in 350 degree oven for 20-25 minutes and serve piping hot.

Porcini Mushroom Sauce, Old Stone Row Restaurant

2 oz. dried porcini mushroom; 2 c. boiling water; 1 oz. (1 T.) fresh garlic, chopped

2 oz. (3 T.) fresh shallots, chopped; 1 oz. butter; 1 qt. heavy cream

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Soak mushrooms in water until soft. Finely chop the mushrooms and strain the soaking water through a coffee filter to remove any grit. Reserve the liquid. 2. Saute shallots and garlic in butter. Add chopped mushrooms and liquid. Reduce. 3. Add cream and reduce to 4 cups. 4. Season with fresh thyme, sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Served at Old Stone Row over penne pasta with sauteed portobello mushrooms, spinach and parmesan cheese. Also good with chicken and/or prosciutto added.

Walnut-Crusted Lamb Loin, Jacques Cartier Dining Room

1 whole Frenched lamb loin rack; 1 T. red pepper jelly; 1 whole egg yolk

1 whole clove of garlic; 2 T. bread crumbs; 2 T. ground black walnuts

1/4 t. each of ground rosemary, thyme, paprika, white pepper, salt, garlic powder and onion powder

1. Trim bones off muscle and fat. Sear rack on grill until browned. 2. Mix walnuts and bread crumbs together and set aside. 3. Mix jelly, garlic, seasonings and herbs. 4. Brush lamb with jelly mixture, then gently roll in crumbs. 5. Bake at 450 degrees until desired temperature is reached (130 -140 degrees). 6. Carefully slice lamb, trying not to break off the crust. Served at the Riveredge with chive whipped potatoes, herbed root vegetables, gingered peach chutney and red onion confit.

Val d'Aosta, Violi's Restaurant

2 2-oz. veal scallopini pounded thin; 1 slice imported prosciutto, very thin

1 1/2 oz imported fontina, sliced; 1/2 c. seasoned bread crumbs with parmesan cheese

1 egg slightly beaten; 1 T. butter; 2 oz. white wine; 2 oz. veal stock; 1 t. fresh lemon juice

salt and pepper to taste; olive oil

1. Sandwich prosciutto and fontina between two scaloppine of veal. 2. Dip first into egg, then into bread crumbs. Saute in olive oil until golden on both sides. 3. Pour off olive oil and add butter, white wine and veal stock. Reduce to half. 4. Add lemon juice and serve. Makes 1 serving, so simply repeat for the number of people you'll be serving.