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Blazing
the Trail on Two Wheels:
Two
Busy Bostonians Bike The Seaway Trail
by
Christine Thompson
It was the “thrill
of seeing new landscapes, meeting wonderfully engaging folks,
and eating at local places” that attracted long- distance
cyclists Bonnie Masland and her husband David Fish to New
York State’s Seaway Trail this past summer. For these
full-time professionals— Bonnie is a psychologist specializing
in psychotherapy with survivors of severe trauma and David
is the men’s Varsity Tennis coach at Harvard University—a
summer ‘repast’ of 500+ mile bicycle trips is
a “mental oasis” which sustains them during the
rest of the year.
Preparations and plans
to bike the Seaway Trail from Henderson Harbor to Lewiston
and back began the previous fall. After making reservations
at inns that offer a private bath and are cyclist-friendly,
the conditioning began. With their sights on distant dates
of June 27th through July 4th weekend, they began endurance
and strength training in January. This included cardiovascular
workouts on the steps at the Harvard University Football Stadium,
leg and “fanny” training for up to two hours a
day on stationary bikes, and upper body workouts which involved
hundreds of daily sit-ups and push-ups. With their mountain
bikes tuned-up, new chains installed, ‘slick’
tires mounted, four panniers (saddlebags) per bike packed
with 10 days of supplies, and the bikes secured on their car,
Bonnie and David drove from Boston to Henderson Harbor. As
they headed north from Utica, they “could immediately
feel the cool breeze from the Lake”—though Lake
Ontario was still miles away.
With sunlight glistening
off eastern Lake Ontario, they arrived at the Charter House
Inn, 13565 Harbor Road, Henderson Harbor, the starting point
of their Seaway Trail bicycling adventure. Thursday, June
27th, the Lake was still, and the sunrise magnificent! Their
early departure led them southwest on Route 3. Along the way,
road construction workers offered a short cut over an incompletely
constructed bridge. Bonnie and David stopped at the first
of many ‘local haunts’ to replenish their fluids.
This stop was at a place called Brennen’s. Fluids, fluids
and more fluids are essential to every bicycling adventure.
David “checks out” the atmosphere of local establishments
(bars, et al) with two requirements: the proprietor doesn’t
mind that the two of them drink only water, iced tea, and
lemonade, and that there is a TV on which they can view an
hour or two of Grand Slam tennis at Wimbledon.
Following Route 3 west
toward Route 104, Bonnie and David found fair weather, mild
lake breezes, and agreeable road conditions. Commenting on
the Seaway Trail, Bonnie and David rated the following as
significant pluses: courteous and friendly drivers, cycling-friendly
roads with wide shoulders and no potholes, picturesque rolling
countryside vistas with clean air, lake breezes to keep the
mosquitoes to a nearly non-existent level, and no poison ivy.
Biking from Route 104 to 104A, Bonnie and David arrived at
the Maple Grove Bed & Breakfast, 1275 Route 104A, Sterling.
Friendly proprietors Walter and Gisela Schneider lent them
their car and suggested they go to the Pleasant Beach Hotel
in Fair Haven for dinner. They enjoyed a wonderful meal beside
what they called a “beautiful and peaceful harbor.”
Little did they know that on their return trip from Lewiston
in a week, they would discover the quaint and unique Fly By
Night Cookie Company tucked away from the road, at14541 Fancher
Avenue, Fair Haven, where they bake and sell incredibly delicious
cookies and other confectionery delights.
On Friday morning, June
29th, Bonnie and David leave the kind and caring Schneiders
for Sodus Point, their next destination along the Seaway Trail.
En route they get to have a mid-afternoon snack at Papa Joe’s
Restaurant where, happily, they were able to watch more of
Wimbledon. They arrived to stay at the Carriage House, located
at the corner of Wickham and Ontario Streets. Bonnie and David
are vegetarians and often eat a very simple breakfast. They
found everyone more than accommodating to both their habits
and their needs.
On Saturday, June 30th,
the weather turned very hot—a day, it seems, to get
lost. While maneuvering through construction areas in Rochester,
a couple approached them in a car. The gentleman gave them
“good, safe” directions to follow to avoid the
congested city and link them with fascinating roads. Many
hours later Shirley and her husband, proprietors of the Sandy
Creek Manor House Bed & Breakfast, 1960 Redman Road, Hamlin,
greeted the weary cyclists.
The weather continued hot
and breezy until Sunday morning, July 1st. When Bonnie and
David left Hamlin for the last leg of the route west toward
Lewiston, the weather turned drizzly and windy. After stopping
in Lyndonville for a snack, they continued and encountered
what was to be their most challenging day. The winds intensified
as a front pushed through. Suddenly they were caught in a
thunder and lightning storm. When a wall of wind almost blew
Bonnie off her bicycle, they both knew it was time to seek
shelter. They quickly found refuge under the porch of a farmhouse.
As the storm abated, they noticed three small heads popping
up in the front window. Three wide-eyed little boys asked,
“Can we go with you?” Fortunately their mother
came to Bonnie and David’s rescue. After politely declining
a sleepover invitation from the children, they made their
way to Youngstown Road. Stopping in Wilson for lunch, they
met a wonderful waitress who was a distance runner, and could
share their enthusiasm for such a trip. Though the day had
been a long, hard ride, they bicycled on, traveling toward
the Niagara River and Lewiston—their most westerly destination
along the Seaway Trail. Their reward was to follow a bike
path beside the Lower River Road that hugged the Niagara River.
Sunlight shimmered on the water as they made their way to
Lewiston, “a lovely town.” While in Lewiston they
lodged at the Sunset Inn, 4228 Lower River Road, Jim and Janet
Hood, proprietors.
Monday, July 2nd, was a
day of exploration and biking around the Lewiston/Niagara
River area. By Tuesday, the storm had eased the mid-summer
heat, bringing in cool, refreshing air. With the wind at their
backs and having bid farewell to their gracious hosts, Bonnie
and David began their return trip at 6:00 am. Just as they
had been greeted upon their approach to Lewiston, the Niagara
River twinkled sunlight at them as they traveled, this time
north on Lower River Road. They arrived Tuesday, July 3rd
back at the Sandy Creek Manor house without the fanfare of
thunder and lightning. For dinner, they chose the local favorite,
a pizza and ice cream shop.
Awakened by the call of
“land gulls” (humor was necessary nutrient on
such a trip!) on a beautiful Wednesday, July 4th morning,
Bonnie and David followed the welcoming and clearly marked
Seaway Trail signs en route to Sodus Point. East of Bear Creek
and west of Bootlegger’s Point, they ate lunch at Pickles
Restaurant, in Pultneyville, “a great little place.”
At Pickles they met two women cyclists from the Philadelphia
area on their way west across the country. It was great fun
comparing notes and telling stories. On Thursday, July 5th,
Bonnie and David rode their bikes through Fair Haven before
heading south to Sterling. Besides thoroughly indulging themselves
at the ‘Fly By Night Cookie Company’, they encountered
another noteworthy event—the Sodus Point July 4th parade
(on the 5th)! Bonnie describes it as a “true happening,”
a very down-to-earth event, with people from all over the
countryside. There were floats with goats and cats, and even
someone’s favorite pet chicken! Earlier that day, they
had revisited the Pleasant Beach Hotel for iced-coffee where
they met co-owner David Fox. David, whose home sat on the
west branch of Sterling Creek, offered them the use of his
canoe for a little break, which they happily accepted. So
off they paddled along the West Branch of Sterling Creek.
After thanking David for his generous hospitality, they cycled
“home” for the evening to the Maple Grove B&B.
They sat up late chatting with Walter Schneider, a retired
military chaplain; the two were reluctant to have their Seaway
Trail trip come so soon to an end.
Friday, July 6th arrived
with a resurgence of summer heat as they rode back to Henderson
Harbor and the Charter House Inn. After dining in Sackets
Harbor, they settled in for the evening. A warm and friendly
breakfast at the Charter House sent them on their way home
to distant Boston with “renewed spirits and commitment
to their work” as well as very special and enjoyable
memories of New York State’s Seaway Trail.
Bonnie & David’s
favorite spots along their Seaway Trail bike route include:
Fly By Night Cookie
Company
14541 Fancher Ave
Fair Haven, NY 13601
315-947-5588
Easy to find:
Take 104A into Fair Haven then
North on Fancher Avenue.
Fly By Night Cookie Company specializes in “Homemade
Pastries in the Old World Tradition.” It’s open
daily from March 21st to December 24th.
Enjoy High Tea
or Low Tea!
It’s self-serve and on your honor when the
cook is out. Cookies are 50 cents each 65 varieties of cookies
and pastries; 26 different pies, cakes, pound cakes, cheesecakes,
and “Cameo Celebrity” cakes. On a veranda replete
with vines and hand-carved gargoyles, you’ll find a
formal hutch with a selection of teapots, cups and saucers,
and linen napkins. On a white board inside you may find these
words: “If you find me gone, come in and help yourself.
Be sure to put a baggie over your hand... prices are on the
wall. Thank you!”
Maple Grove Bed
& Breakfast
1275 Route 104A, Sterling, NY
315-947-5408
Proprietors: Walter and Gisela Schneider
Recommended not only for the Bed and Breakfast’s charming
location but also for the cordiality of its owners. Walter,
a minister, raises llamas; Gisela spins wool and runs the
farm with her husband. Warm, stirring and entertaining conversations
emanated from their welcoming, genuine personalities.
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